A dessert counter where Japan, France and New York meet.
Our experience
The only thing we love more than dessert is… dessert in plural. Desserts. Multi-courses. We have had the opportunity, and certainly privilege, to have been able to sample a number of dessert-only experiences across the world. Between 2020-2023, no dessert bar opened in NYC. But, behold, there has been two this year alone! One is Lysee, which we previously reviewed here. And the other is Momoya Soho, which is today’s review.
Held once (sometimes twice) a month, Momoya Soho’s “dessert omakase” requires at least a month of advance reservations. You may recall Momoya Soho from one of our previous round-up list of NYC’s Best Restaurant Desserts. See here for that review. Although its Tiktok-famous giant parfait dessert doesn’t make an appearance at the dessert omakase, the experience features six other dessert courses. On our visit, the degustation commenced with a somewhat polarizing palate cleanser bite of foie gras and red bean sandwiched between crunchy toast. This was followed by a succession of dessert courses including: (i) a delicately-crafted Oishii strawberry cream parfait (probably our favourite dessert); (ii) two wagashi (one of which stands out in our memory as a vibrant yuzu-infused morsel); (iii) a tight circle of caramelized apple to form a tarte tatin; (iv) a swirl of chestnut cream and hojicha meringue; (v) a cream puff that yielded an exuberantly rich chocolate centre; and (vi) a platter of three mignardises, consisting of a caramelized pecan, shortbread gingerbread man cookie, and strawberry chocolate truffle. About halfway through, a French onion-style soup was served in a little porcelain crucible.
Our verdict
If Lysee offers an occasional dessert degustation experience grounded on French patisserie craft inflected with a Korean edge, Momoya Soho’s omakase experience sees a base of French desserts with a flicker of Japanese flavours and influences. We love both in different ways, but we also look forward to a day when a dessert counter in NYC showcases Asian dessert tradition, flavours and technique, without relying on a French foundation.
Dessert adventure checklist
- ☑ Dessert destination: Momoya Soho, 47 Prince Street, Soho, Manhattan.
- ☑ Budget: $$$$ ($115 approx incl. tip/tax).
- ☑ Sweet irresistibles: Dessert degustation.
- ☑ Must-eat: The “Strawberry Parfait” and the wagashi.
- ☑ The short and sweet story: A dessert counter where Japan, France, and New York meet.
Dessert Correspondents 