Baroque (Sydney) *(closed)

Desserts here are spectacular 21st-century interpretations of french classics.

Our experience

Located on an elevated terrace in The Rocks district, Baroque is furnished with an underlying provincial touch, highlighted by contemporary textures of rosy plastic, coppery brass, dark woods, and deco mirrors.  With some lovely views over the harbour, this off-shoot of the much-loved La Renaissance Patisserie is an affordable, but nonetheless fine option for dining in the exclusive Rocks.

Following two long days of business meetings, MoMo & Coco visted for an end-of-week dinner. To kick-start off our dining experience at Baroque, MoMo & Coco selected the very pleasant honey bunny cocktail. A great recommendation from the (initially) friendly wait staff.

From the Modern French bistro-style a la carte menu, our party selected for mains, two beautifully cooked fishes. The first was a grilled eye mullet sitting on a bed of dark puy lentils, with champignons soaked in a bacon vinaigrette ($31). The second main was a barramundi infused with vadouvan, soubise and a light chicken vinagrette that similarly enriched the flavour of the fish, and came accompanied with a side of heirloom carrots ($34).

In skipping entrees and sides, MoMo & Coco had planned, and certainly had the stomach space, to sample a greater number of the a la carte desserts, the petits gateaux available from the kitchen’s adjacent patisserie, and to linger over another cocktail or so with our dining companion. After all, dining out is not all about food, as pertinently highlighted in this article. However, we were quite frostily told that if we wished to have more than two desserts and therefore prolong longer, we would have to vacate the restaurant to a seat on the verandah, exposed to the wintry chills (!!). At this point, it was only 40 minutes into dinner and since our first order (!!). Consequently, and most unfortunately, we were only able to sample the following…apologies dear readers…

The first irresistible was our much-loved “Cafe Gourmand” ($10) a strong espresso, black, no, served with three macarons resembling three perfectly formed mini-burgers. There was a robust coffee cream macaron embellished with flecks of gold leaf, a bling-bling silvery pink berry macaron, and in capturing the seasons, a simply exquisite chestnut macaron filled with a pear ganache and spotted with gold highlights.

From the 5-item dessert menu, we bypassed the seasonally-changing creme brulee, chocolate-based and fruit-salad desserts, and chose as our second irresistible for the evening, the “Bavarois à la Myrtille” ($16). A brick of blueberry bavarois was most carefully and creamily turned out, with mini rounds of white chocolate caressing its length, complemented by fresh glossy blueberries, a line of chocolate crumbs, and a snappy crisp of walnut nougatine. To these sweet-and-tart, creamy-and-crispy elements, a dollop of walnut ice cream added a slightly strange twist.

The third irresistible made the night – “Soufflé aux Pêches Blanches et Amandes” ($16). Served with a rustic touch, digging past the icing-sugar-dusted top revealed a heavenly meringue cloud, very lightly flavoured with peach. For an additional serve of sweet irresistibleness, there was small dish of strawberry sorbet. To top it off, a meteorite path of slightly gingery gold flecks crisscrossed the board, with two crispy cat tongues biscuits and a blackcurrant macaron providing the perfect textural crunch to counter the softness of this souffle irresistible.

Our verdict

While the service towards the end of our dinner may have belonged to the neanderthal era, Baroque’s irresistibles were most definitely, spectacular 21st-century interpretations of baroque french classics. Baroque is surely something missing in Melbourne’s dining landscape. Sydney-siders, MoMo & Coco envy you!

Dessert adventure checklist

  1. Dessert destination: Baroque Bistro, 88 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW 2000.
  2. Budget: $$$.
  3. Sweet irresistibles: Restaurant dessert. Neo-classical French.
  4. Must-eat: Every dessert that you can fit in, but especially the “Cafe Gourmand.”
  5. The short and sweet story: Desserts here are spectacular 21st-century interpretations of french classics.

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