Hunting down nonya kuih in Penang (Malaysia)

Introduction

If you could only choose one dessert to eat, what would it be? For us, it would be a very hard decision to make between a giant bowl of shaved ice, or Nonya kuih. Of the latter, it is a category of desserts that is slowly becoming extinct. Over the years, we have hunted down kuih in Melbourne and New York, and in this feature, we return to the country of origin and compare two of the most well-known kuih spots in Penang, Malaysia.

Moh Teng Pheow

Dessert destination: Moh Teng Pheow, Georgetown, Penang.
Budget: MYR 60 cents to $2 a piece.
Must-eat: Rempah Udang, Abuk Abuk.
Short and sweet story: As a general rule of thumb, walking down a decrepit alleyway is something we avoid, even in NYC and Melbourne. More so in Malaysia… So you can imagine our anxiety when Google Maps led us down a weird little alley to get to this supposedly Michelin-starred kuih shop. Upon arrival, you awkwardly walk through an old kitchen to reach a small shopfront. This small shopfront has a cloudy glass counter, and showcased within, there is a rainbow selection of kuih. So how was the kuih? The kuih confirmed to us just how…disappointing…the Michelin system is outside of the Europe/North American region. Most of the kuih here were tinnnyyyyy, and flavour-wise, the typical coconut and/or pandan tones were almost imperceptible. We do not recommend. But…the kuih wrapped in banana leaf – i.e. rempah udang and abuk abuk – now, those are very much worth your time.

Li Er Nonya Cafe

Dessert destination: Li Er Nonya Cafe, near Pulau Tikus, Penang.
Budget: MYR $2.60 for two pieces.
Must-eat: Kuih talam.
Short and sweet story: Li Er cafe is a cute (air-conditioned, thank lord) cafe near Pulau Tikus. It showcases a selection of kuih, all of which are more appropriately-sized compared to the Liliputian bites at Moh Teng Pheow, and which are – in our opinion – infused with stronger flavours. Li Er also offers a few Nonya snacks, such as roti jala, curry chicken, and nutmeg juice, which are also excellent. In short, Li Er is definitely a kuih spot we would return to. 🙂